Jan 212014


This fabulous I.Magnin & co. evening coat from about 1950 was given to me for a full overhaul.  What makes it particularly exciting is the fact it’s from a time when we still had rationing in England whilst the luxury market was up and running in America.    The ermine trim was still perfect, the silk velvet outer was still in good nick (except for a 3″ tear), but the lining had really gone beyond the point of no return.

Firstly, the old lining was unpicked, and details like this beautiful inside pocket were recorded so they could be replicated later.
The original satin lining was mounted on muslin to give the coat structure whilst retaining its light, elegant feel.  The muslin was in pretty good condition, so I pressed and re-inforced it where necessary ready for re-use.
A pale pink silk crêpe was chosen for the new lining.  This was pre-shrunk with a lot of very hot steam and left to set before being cut out slightly larger than the muslin.  NEVER underestimate how much any crêpe fabric will shrink when it glances steam or water on the horizon.
The tear in the silk velvet is dealt with before relining takes place.  This is done carefully on a flat surface as ironing antique velvet is not an option.
A black organza is herringboned around the damaged site, the tiny running stitches keep the torn fabric in place whilst being concealed by the velvet’s pile.
The lining (mounted on the muslin) is inserted, taking special care to replicate all period details such as this pleat which runs from the shoulder to the bust.

The coat is now ready for the next 60 years!

Mending prices start at £15, re-lining prices are on application.
Please get in touch for a quote.