Feb 192014
 

Possible dress alteratinsIt is possible to alter womens clothes for men.  Retaining femininity and elegance alongside dignity whilst undertaking radical alterations is the key.

Successful dressing is part art, part science and part sorcery. The rules as defined in the 1950s and 60s are best laid out in Dress for Success by Edith HeadThe Art of Being A Well Dressed Wife by Anne Fogarty also has excellent advice for looking the part, but is NOT feminist friendly.  According to Anne, discipline of the mind, body and emotions is what leads to complete femininity and successful expression of your identity.

Trinny and Susannah have a slightly dated take on body types and what suits them, and Colour me Beautiful is the template all image consultants work to when deciding which colours and shapes work for you.  Have a look at Alexa Chung for current trends. Lucia van der Post of The Times and How to Spend It shares all manner of style and beauty tips in her book Things I wish my Mother had told me:  Lessons in Grace and Elegance.  It’s not a sexy book, but it’s the best out there for the modern woman, and has great advice on clothes care too.

Camoflage by Edith Head

Dress as camoflage by Edith Head

Just as different clothes suit different body shapes, different alterations are required to make those clothes look good on different people.  Contrary to what the fashion industry would have you believe, as people get bigger in different directions proportions and aesthetics change.  The trick is knowing what you like and persevering when it comes to sourcing and remodeling the frock for your figure.

As the turnover of most women’s wardrobes is a fast one, there is much choice to be had in nearly new, designer resale, vintage and charity shops.  Know your size (measured in the correct underwear and padding) and shop with a tape measure as standard dress sizes are a myth.   Fabrics, position of pockets and buttonholes cannot be changed later.  Natural fibres are best when it comes to alterations, wool and silk being the most forgiving when it comes to loosing seamlines and adapting shapes.  Portobello Market on a Friday is great if you are looking for vintage pieces.  Ebay is worth persevering with, especially as most garments are measured rather than sized.  It will be easier to make separates work than frocks as you don’t have to worry about the length in the body.

Should you be in the market for couture or bespoke, choose your dressmaker carefully.  Visit them armed with images you like and a clear idea of what you want the garment to do.  Be prepared to explain your preferred fabrics and style and to discuss every last detail of the garment.

NB Altering mens clothes for women is a separate post.

The green panels show new elements inserted to radically alter a dress

The green panels show new elements inserted to radically alter a dress

Which alterations are possible?

The golden rules
•Always make sure the garment fits the largest part of your body.  Fabric cannot be magicked out of thin air!
•Women’s clothes close right over left, men’s left over right,.
•Armholes and sleeves must be changed in conjunction with each other.
•It is hard to alter shoulders, lapels and across the back at armhole level or above.
•Fittings must be with the correct underwear including any padding.  Ideally the right shoes should be worn too.  Think outfit rather than garment.

Tried and tested solutions
•Insertions of lace, net, or contrasting fabric to lengthen sleeves or hems.
•Replacement of back, or chest with sheer stretch net (as used by ballroom dancers).
•Adding eye catching detail at the neckline to draw attention to the face, and away from (-insert issue here-)
•New sleeves added to garment to cover arms.
•A garment can be fitted to enhance the curves within.
•Layers are your friend.  They flatter, add interest and hide all manner of garment mis-fits.

Tops

Standard alterations
Fitted with darts front or back
Extra buttons added to prevent gaping
Cuffs changed/ added
Bottom shaped or shortened

Extensive alterations
Length extended with chiffon so top can be tucked in, and stays there
Sleeves changed/ added
Neckline changed
Collar changed/ added
Inserts added for length

Skirts

Standard alteration
Expand or reduce at waist
Shorten or let down hem

Extensive alterations
Move/ change zip
Alter seams down length of skirt
Add inserts to lengthen
Add panels to give fullnessAdd lining/ netting/ frills under skirt to give shape

Trousers

Standard alterations
Reduce or expand waist centre back
Shorten or lengthen trousers (plain or with turn-up)
Move buttons or waist fastening
Add belt loops

Extensive alterations
Alter waist at side seams
Restyle pockets (where possible)
Take leg seams in/ out
Lower crotch

Dresses

Standard alterations
Fastenings movedDarts at front and/or back to give shape
Waist nipped in
Hem shaped,  shortened or let down

Extensive alterations
Neckline changed
Move/ change zip
Alter seams down length of skirt
Replace back with stretch panel
Add inserts to lengthen
Add panels to give fullnessAdd lining/ netting/ frills under skirt to give shape
Sleeves added
Inserts put into hem or sleeves

Jackets and coats

Standard alterations
Buttons moved
Sleeves shortened/ lengthened (no vent/ buttonholes)
Darts in front (no pockets) or back to give shape
Seams shaped below armhole

Extensive alterations
Sleeves shortened with vent/ buttonholes or at shoulder
Length shortened/ extended
Fronts shaped at hips
Taking in across the back at armhole level or above
Moving sleeves to take in across the back, reduce shoulder and trim waist. (I know it sounds weird, but they are connected.)

Price guide
Small alterations from £15  (button moving from £3)
Extensive alterations from £35
All pricing is based on an hourly rate.  Most garments need several alterations to fit properly.  Once the work is underway the cost is always less than the sum of the alterations undertaken.